Bula!

Happy New Year Everyone!

Well, I have just completed my 5th night in Fiji, one of the first nations on Earth to ring in the New Year each year. Even as I write here at 12:10pm on New Years day, no doubt most of you are still preparing to celebrate. May you enjoy yourselves as much as I have . . .

Since my last update I spent my remaining 4 days in Buenos Aires, just hanging around and touring a few more parts of the city. I finally took myself to San Telmo, a classicaly European quarter rich with street performers and charming architecture. On the subway there I ran into a couple from New York, Becca and Joachim, who both were kind enough to have me along to dinner. One of Becca's favorite steak houses in the entire city, the meat was so tender and succulent that the wait staff cut it up at your table with a spoon, never a knife. Because of how the cattle are fed and cared for, the beef in Argentina is simply better than in most places. For all you non meaters, my apologies.

I spent my last night at a housewarming party for an Australian gal who Estee had befriended earlier in the week, and then it was off to the airport with Paula and Camila! Again, much love to you Nunez/Martin family. I'm so grateful for the opportunity to have befriended and spent time with you. We'll be seeing you real soon, I promise ;-).

Three relatively uneventful flights later, on Christmas eve I arrived in LA to a warm greating from my brother Anthony. We made a frantic dash to REI to help me find some lighter and more versatile clothing. After that it was sushi for the both of us in Santa Monica and on to our brother Francis's home for Christmas. I lightened my baggage load by nearly 1/2, as I soon had come to realize that I didn't need half of what I originally packed. After some breakfast shopping with Anthony and laundry, Mom, Christina and Merwan arived Christmas day around midday. For the first time in our family's history, we celebrated Christmas together somewhere other than one of the parents' homes. I schooled Mom on the proper protocal for drinking yerba mate from Argentina, and we all enjoyed a fabulous heat n' go meal on behalf of Francis. The theme this year was scarves, as Francis, recently back from India, delivered at least one to each of us. The photos, once posted, will speak for themselves. After some time spent with Francis's girlfriend Vivian and her father, Mom, Christina and Merwan headed home, and Anthony and I to the airport. For being my only day of winter this year, I certainly chose a good one to spend at home. It's always a treasure to return home to family, even if for only 24 hours. Unbelievably, I was now on my way to Fiji!

The warmth, friendliness and happiness of the Fijian people radiates! And I was feeling it before we even departed LAX. The crew on the flight were all Fijian, were all helpful, were all smiling. It's hard to describe the virtual fresh air you breathe in such warmth and happiness. Crossing the international date line, I departed the night of the 25th and 10 hours later arrived in morning of the 27th. I hope you all had a smashing Boxing Day. Mine evaporated before it even had a chance! :-) After a long wait in customs and for luggage, I was supposed to depart for Momi Bay, about 40 minutes from Nadi, to begin my open water scuba course. Before I could even say "taxi," I was warmly greeted by Amy, no doubt the slickest travel agent in all of Fiji. Before I knew it, Amy had me up in her office convincing me that my time and money would be better spent in the Yasawa island chain a two hour boat ride away. Funny thing, it turned out . . . I wanted to go to the Yasawas! I just thought that I would go later, after my dive course. There was an open water course available for me on MantaRay island, and a package that included accomodations, food and all transfers. I could kill two birds with one stone. After some frantic phone calling, the package was booked, I was hurried into a cab for a 30 minute ride with 45 minutes to make the boat. I got to the harbor, dropped my bag, and got on the boat. Done! Now I was heading for an island chain of white sand beaches and amazing coral reefs to learn to scuba dive! Total whirlwind, but well worth it all.

I sat down and immediately began telling my arrival story to Liz and Nikki, two great Australian gals on holiday from Canberra. We laughed and joked the whole 2 hours to our respective islands. The ferry stops at something like 20 islands going North and back South again. But instead of docks, it stops 100 meters or so off the island and a little boat comes to collect you and your luggage. After bidding goodbye to Nikki and Liz, who were staying on another island, we arrived at Manta Ray. Upon hopping on the little boat, we wizzed to shore to be greated by a Fijian seranade, compliments of the staff. I checked into my room, and sought out my scuba instructor, Ryan. Ryan is a lively young Australian with the classic Ozzy flair and laid-back manner. He handed me my course book and set me to studying. Tomorrow was to be my first introductory dive. I ate a little, snorkeled the most vibrant and alive reef I have ever seen in my life, and studied. Jetlag still weighing on me, I headed to bed early, excited about the next 4 days of underwater adventures!

I wont go into all the details of the course or all the great people I met at the island during my 4 days there. I will say that without a doubt I am so disheartened that I waited as long as I did to learn to scuba dive, knowing full well all along that I would absolutely love it. Clear, beautiful waters with vibrant, large, colorful reefs and thousands upon thousands of tropical fish. By the end I had completed an 18 meter dive along a much deeper sea wall. The weightlessness, the colors, the fascination with every little creature and plant life has been one of the greatest gifts I've ever given to myself. I passed my skills and written exams with flying colors. I'm now certified and looking forward to the next dive - in 2 days in fact. During my stay I met a fun loving Kiwi named Kirien who convinced me to do a 27 meter shark dive with him. Ryan sung praises to the dive as he had done it a few weeks prior. You dive in open water to 27 meters, where the dive company them chums the waters and the next thing you're looking directly at a feeding frenzy of bull, reef and white tipped reef sharks only meters away. Occasionally a 6 meter tiger shark shows up! While I have mixed feelings about swimming with a tiger shark, I'm actually really looking forward to the craziness. Photos to follow.

My stay on MantaRay ended yesterday. I hopped on the boat back to the main island harbor, and there again I found Nikki and Liz. They kindly allowed me to join them at the hotel for the evening. We went out to dinner, and headed to a local club to ring in the New Year. After connecting with about 7 or 8 other Ozzies, and a drink or two too many, we rung in the New Year dancing and clowning around. Off to bed, and up for breakfast this morning. Nikki and Liz headed back for Australia today, and I'm presently biding my time waiting for Kirien to arrive from MantaRay. Tomorrow he and I are off to Bega island for the dive. Unfortunately I can't load photos on this computer at this internet cafe. The remainder of Argentina and Fiji to date will come as soon as I can get them up.

Vinaka from Fiji! Catch you soon.

Jonathan