Southeast Asian Slowdown

Greetings from Ko Tao Island, Thailand!

Well, life has certainly taking a few interesting twists and turns since I last wrote. At last check in I was on my way to Bali. Currently I'm in Thailand, enjoying the sand, sun and beautiful blue waters of the Gulf of Thailand. But it hasn't been all fun and relaxation. Traveling is just like anything else in life - you do it long enough and you're bound to hit some rough patches along the way.

I arrived in Bali feeling awful. Some general abdominal pain, coupled with really low energy had me thinking that something serious was going on. I spent my first two days in Bali visiting doctors and trying to get sorted. The medical docs couldn't come up with anything after an abdominal xray turned up nothing. Oh wait, they did suggest I take and pay for a 980 dollar CT scan! No surprise there. The next day I took myself to the chiropractor. I found an excellent one in Kuta - the tourist mecca of Bali. After some massage, and adjustment, and electro-stim treatment to my lower back, I felt about 90 percent better. When you're used to exercising the body almost daily, and going in for regular chiro adjustments, after nearly 6 months of doing none of that, I was more than due to feel something. On the mend but still needing to rest, I spent my first 4 nights in Bali indoors, watching several very cheap (and very suspect) DVD's I purchased,and just generally taking it easy.

Finally feeling better enough, I hopped on my rental scooter and headed to the village of Ubud, about 45 minutes from Kuta. There I was greeted by Ketut, the friend and business client of my good friend Mikey Files. Ketut showed me around the local monkey rain forest and took me to dinner at a phenomenal restaurant. Best fish I'd ever had! The next day I joined Ketut and her son Oneness (yes, Oneness) for a day trip out to the reef at Ahmed on the Northeast corner of the island. We snorkeled the reef, ate pizza, and generally had a wonderful time. Ketut had never been for a proper snorkel because of her fear of the depths. So I took her along with me, keeping her close by. She lit up like a Christmas tree for having seen all the beautiful fish and corals. Her seven year old son took to water like a fish, and followed me all around the reef. Imagine swimming in clear tropical waters over beautiful reef with a golden child named Oneness at your side. It was ethereal.

I stayed two nights with Ketut, Oneness and Uli, Ketut's business partner and Oneness's father. I returned to Kuta set on just relaxing, and enjoying some of the beach. All was going quite well on the hour scooter ride home, when all of a sudden - the shakedown. Bali law enforcement is notorious for corruption, particularly when it comes to tourists. A motorcycle cop pulled me over and fined me 3,000,000 rupiah (a touch less than $30 US) for not carrying an international driver's license. And this dude wouldn't even haggle. No money on the spot, and I'd have to go downtown as it were. Oh well, easy come, easy go. Later that day I checked out famous surf spots Dreamland and Balangan. Beautiful spots for sure. Dreamland wasn't rideable when I arrived - only shore break. Balangan I surfed a little bit on the inside, but generally took it easy. At the end of my beach day, I was cruising along in the last afternoon when BAM! - flagged down by another cop. This time, for apparently not stopping completely before I made a left onto a the main highway. Bastards! I wasn't having it though. I angrily told him that this was the second time in a day I had been pulled at that I only had 50,000 rupiah left for food for the next two days (I lied - but was still angry). He acknowledged my complaint, and let me go with a begrudging handshake.

My last full day in Bali I had another chiro appointment, and dealt with some travel logistics online. I feel like Bali was more of a rest stop for me than anything else. Though, I did have the opportunity to visit some very beautiful spots on the island. If you've never taken the opportunity to experience the beauty and calm of seemingly endless rice paddies, do it. They're spectacular in Bali. Every turn through the country reveals another scenic vista of stepped rice paddies, green and wet. Ketut and Uli lived in a house that backed up to a rice paddy. Completely amazing.

After a brief layover in Jakarta, I arrived Bangkok on the night of the 16th and rendezvoused with my old time friend, Ella Dascalos. Ella, who I hadn't seen or heard from in years, tracked me down on Facebook a few months back. Needing a break herself, I suggested she join me for some exploration of Thailand with me. She accepted, and here we are!

After one day in hot, hot Bangkok, we hopped on an overnight bus and headed south for the islands. The first two nights we stayed on Kao Phangan, and now are currently on Kao Tao. It's beautiful here. The water is blue, the accomodation next to nothing, and the food is varied and fresh. All of the islands in the Gulf of Thailand have something of beauty and relaxation to offer. Take yourself here one day if you ever get the opportunity. It's been wonderful having Ella here with me for this 10 day leg of my journey. Traveling alone certainly allows for optimal flexibility, but from time to time lonliness, or even boredom can set. Having a travel buddy has been refreshing, and it's been wonderful to reconnect with someone who I hadn't seen in about 15 years.More to come later on. Right now I find myself debating whether or not I venture into Vietnam and Laos, or whether I just relax here in Thailand for a few more weeks and then make an early jump to India in mid May instead of early June. Funds are beginning to fall, and so is my thirst for adventure a bit to be quite honest. We'll see what presents itself to me in the next few weeks.

Much love to all still following along. More soon.

Jonathan

Don't Cry For Me Australia . . . :-)

Happy April 6th!

Well, I am just several hours from getting on my flight to Bali. My indeed does time fly. I'll give the usual rundown of what I've been up to, then perhaps a few reflections on Australia.

So, I flew to Canberra and was greeted by Megan, a friend I had made while in Fiji. Megan, like so many in Canberra, works for the government - the air force specifically. She took me to the Australia War Memorial museum, up Mt.Ainsely for a panoramic view, out to dinner at local eatery, and out for my first ever netball game (watching, not playing). I have to say, as hard as I tried, I'm not really all that fond of watching netball. Must be my love of basketball getting in the way! GO LAKERS!!! And if all that wasn't enough given that I arrived at 2pm, after watching her friend play netball, we went up to Telstra Tower to the revolving restaurant for a true panoramic nighttime view of the city. Back to my hostel, and off to sleep.

Next day I just walked around town, going to the Australia National Museum - an historical display of all things Aussie. In the evening, I was picked up by Campbell, the last relative from the Melbourne family crew I had yet to meet. Campbell and his girlfriend Emily live and work in Canberra for Australian government as well. That night we joined my friend Niki, another unrelated friend from Fiji. Campbell, Niki and her boyfriend and I had some food and drinks and some good laughs. The next day I relaxed and was again later joined by Megan. We went for a drive and ended up back at her friend Sally's house for dinner. Off to a costume party - sans costumes - we joined Campbell and Emily in a lively and crowded apartment filled with various

cartoon characters. Was quite fun.

The next day I connected again with Nikki to take in some really lively Rugby League footie at a local sports bar. After watching nearly 3 games that evening, I was sure I had a pretty good grasp on the game, and on the fact that rugby probably is the most taxing, bruising and tiring game played in the world. We said our goodbyes, and the next day Campbell dropped me off at the bus stop and I was Sydney bound.

Last Sunday I arrived Sydney, greeted at the airport (where the bus dropped me off) by Matt Ives. Old friend from the Youth Sahavas days, Matt shuttled us back to his apartment in a beautiful coastal neighborhood of Sydney, southeast on the map. We collected his brother who was visiting as well, and headed to an actual pro rugby game - the Sharks v the Dragons.

The crowd was huge outside the stadium as we walked up. Luckily, some very nice strangers had three extra tickets to sell before we arrived. We happily accepted, not knowing that had we not we wouldn't have gotten in. Sadly, the Sharks lost in a somewhat defense-heavy game. Back to the apartment where I met Matt's roommate Carolina and saw my old friend Sage. We spent the evening hanging out and generally enjoying ourselves.

The next few days were spent visiting with friends and touring Sydney. I noticed that I was a bit off my tourist game as I didn't really push myself to see and do all things tourist while in Sydney. That said, Sydney is an absolutely beautiful city. Very clean, appealing, and easy to get around in. The Harbor, with the bridge and Opera house were one of very few man-made spots that have taken my breath away. Well worth a visit!

After staying with Matt for three nights and Sage for a couple, I spent the weekend with Roshan Keating. Roshan, Sage and Roshan's friend Sherie and I all went sub thermal as we visited Sydney's Ice Lounge. Sadly I have no photos to share as the bar did not allow us to take pictures. It essentially a large freezer room with a bar, decked out in ice sculptures and ice furniture covered in animal skin. Even the glasses were ice - so the drinks had to be strong to prevent them from freezing. We got buzzed, ran around and had ice block races with the furniture. At -15 celsius, the allotted time of 30 minutes was more than enough to hang there. Once I get the photo that they take and make you pay for scanned, I'll put it up!

Friends who opened up themselves and their homes to me - Matt, Sage, and Roshan Keating and her family - thank you so much. It was really amazing to reconnect with all of you while here. I got to see Sydney as a tourist and an insider. Yesterday, I finally got together with Amy Clay, another old time friend from the Baba community who moved to Sydney over 6 years ago. Amy, an Olympian in Beijing for Australia'a rowing team last summer, is the daughter of my beloved friend Barbara back in Myrtle Beach! After a couple of hours of catching up, I was picked up by Sage and we headed to Stuart's 43rd birthday BBQ. Great to see Stuart and Meherose on my last evening in Sydney. All the best to you all. Until we meet again . . .

Well, 3 months has been the longest I have ever stayed in another country. Time has certainly skirted by, that is for sure. Australia is big, beautiful in some places and barren and rugged in others. The people are, true to reputation, generally easy going and easy to be with. There exists in the cultural ethos an Australian identity that sometimes blatantly, and others subtly, underpins virtually everything you see and here in the media, and in the way people talk about themselves in reference to the rest of the world. It's not just butter or grapes you're eating - it's Australian butter and grapes. They're not beaches you're lying on - they're Australian beaches. Being Australian in Australia is probably more collectively understood - and perhaps valued - than being American in America. It's fashionable here to poke fun at people from other countries - light heartedly of course - particularly if you're American. In one night I was jokingly accused of having every stereotypical American trait, and later in the evening told how incredibly important the American alliance is to Australia,politically and culturally. They eat and breathe American media here - much to my embarrassment and at times dismay - often referencing all the shows and all the movies and musicians we all know and love. They certainly know popular media and entertainment way more than I.

All told, I got the sense that this vintage is still aging, still writing it's story for history. It's a relatively young country I suppose, with tons of room for growth - despite a slowing population growth. I truly can't wait to return to take the opportunity to visit the places I didn't get the opportunity to this go around. Thank you to all here in Australia who made my visit amazing. Here's to reconnecting later on down the road.

Next stop - SouthEast Asia. Get your sunscreen and spice appetite ready!

Until next time.

Jonathan